Whether it’s a hole in your jeans or an accessory that needs sprucing up, there is a lot that a needle, thread, and some concentrated effort can accomplish. Although it may be seen as “old fashioned”, mending and other fiber arts are essential in extending the use of our already limited resources and being mindful of our consumption. Mending, as a practice, seeks to repair something old or damaged and make it functional, usable, and beautiful. I personally think that the goal is never to return it back to its original form, but rather to give it a new spin and lease of life. This idea is really important to remember, since it helps us let go of our expectations of perfection and rather to embrace what we are given and the joy in the process of creation. My work as a Sustainability Cultural Organizer seeks to extend this idea of physical mending and see how we can mend our culture and ourselves in the face of the climate crisis. In January, I facilitated a sewing and mending workshop, focused on learning basic stitching techniques and creating fabric patches to customize tote bags. These are some of the thoughts that I had when planning and executing this workshop.
What, and who, comes to mind when you think of quilting and other fiber arts practices? Perhaps an image of a grandmother hand sewing a geometric cotton quilt or an aunt knitting a colorful sweater. Historically, quilting and mending have always been associated with women, especially lower class women and women of color, but more mainstream “fashion” has been associated with the upper class as a whole. Now, fiber arts are being embraced more and more by the younger generations and wider demographics, especially given the cultural shift away from the modern and towards analog forms of existence. However, this cultural shift is fickle, and trying to break away from fashion consumption can be stigmatized. The poor quality of clothes produced by fast fashion means that having older styles or visible mends on your clothes stand out that much more, and can be viewed positively or negatively depending on your social status. Instead of shying away from standing out, mending can be cultural subversion.
I learned how to knit as a seven year old from my grandmother, and at the time I viewed knitting as a fun (albeit tedious and frustrating) activity to do and bond with my grandmother. As I grew older, I started viewing it more as a pastime and something to do with my hands when bored, but I was still engaging with this craft in a mainly surface level way. Learning about sustainability enriched my fulfillment with fiber arts, but at the end of the day it is the connections and the thought behind what you create that makes this truly subversive. Anybody, no matter their background and age, can engage in this individual act of resistance.
Mending and quilting have rarely been solitary practices, but instead an opportunity to collaborate, socialize, and relax, so it provides the perfect forum for creating social change. As a sewer, crafter, and activist in today’s climate, I find that returning to practices of self care and creativity are not only critical for maintaining our inner strength, but acts of resistance in of itself. Investing your time and effort to put your voice out there is rewarding and effective, but it is extremely draining without support. If we examine cultures across the world, mending and quilting is done in groups to provide physical labor and resources, a listening ear, and make the process more enjoyable and fun. Historically, mending and sewing circles were some of the only places that women could gather freely and also served as meeting places for critical social change. In the United States, suffragettes often met at quilting groups (or quilting “bees”) to plan out their activism and action plans. The Civil Rights movement also used the Freedom Quilting Bee, centered in Gee’s Bend Alabama, to fundraise for their community and to provide a space for community organizing. These same quilts are made today and even help bolster the local economy and culture today.
One of the most notable examples of quilt activism is the AIDS Memorial Quilt project, which is the largest ongoing quilting activism project. It began in 1987 due to the AIDS epidemic and the assassinations of Harvey Milk and Mayor George Moscone. Participants could make personalized quilt panels for their loved ones whose lives had been lost due to the AIDS epidemic. The panels completed by 1996 were displayed on the National Mall as an act of protest, though this project still continues today.
My ultimate goal is for people to understand that quilting and mending are not just practical, but an art in themselves. The Japanese practice of sashiko seeks to make mends visible and beautiful with geometric stitching. It embraces, and highlights, the imperfections as something to be celebrated. As environmentalists, we should adopt this same mindset in everything that we do: strive to do our best, but be understanding and forgiving with ourselves if we need a break. Sometimes, when attempting to mend a physical item, we inadvertently mend our own minds and relationships with each other.
Avni serves as a Sustainable Cultural Organizer with Student Life Sustainability, and is a student currently studying Environmental Engineering.